While in town for New York Fashion Week, I had the ultimate chance to interview menswear design great John Varvatos in his NYC office. I have been to John’s events and knew of his design ability, but it was quite the experience to be in the team’s home base.
I queued JV on the possibility of a high street diffusion, how his rock aesthetic works within the brand and a whole load of other nuggets of goodness – check it out below.
VP: One can’t help but notice the rock theme in your brand (recently Alice Cooper and Peter Frampton live shows). How has this shaped your brand’s lifestyle and identity?
JV: It’s not something I’m cognizant of; it’s part of my life. We work in the design studio with music, so it’s in everything we do, though the label is nothing like designing for rockers; it’s very organic.VP: Has being a Detroit expat affected what you do (or do not) design?
JV: There has always a sense of reality when you’re based in the Midwest; it brings you down to earth, and adds humility. Growing up in humble household and community makes you think of getting in touch with and designing for real guys.VP: How do you feel about high street diffusions (ie. Matthew Williamson for H&M, Rodarte for Target, etc)?
JV: It’s fun, though hasn’t been the appropriate time to do one. Diffusions are another way to access designer brands, and allow you to get a piece of that, though with reasonable quality variations. It’s a fun part of the real world.VP: Would you consider a high street diffusion to be a future venture for the John Varvatos brand?
JV: We have been approached to create diffusion lines for the last five years, though it would be too much of a distraction. I’m open to the idea, though.
VP: Would you ever consider creating a womens wear range?
JV: I started in womens wear at Calvin Klein, but menswear is how we have built the brand around, and we have been successful. It’s all about timing and when you feel like you can execute an idea well. There’s an ego involved; if and when the timing is right then we’ll do it, but we are not doing something just to put my name on it. There’s something appealing about a boy’s club atmosphere, a place that is just for men, a label that is just for men – we don’t want to lose that.
VP: You design seasonal accessories (including bags) that aren’t terrifying to men – how do you see importance of accessories to a men’s style presentation?
JV: It depends on the city or community that you work in. In big cities, day bags are incredibly important as a practicality, though it depends on the city; in LA you may not have bags. It’s become more important, it’s part of a lifestyle instead of a symbol of fashion.
VP: As your brand develops, do you see yourself staying with the refined rock aesthetic?
JV: All of the lines (John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos USA, Converse by John Varvatos) have very different personalities, and are about a different part of your lifestyle. Star is ‘imperfectly perfect’, which I feel that is what is identified with [by the consumer].
VP: You are releasing a full leather accessory range for John Varvatos USA – how did designing for a younger, [perhaps] more financially restricted audience direct your design?
JV: You have to be more creative in terms of sourcing raw materials, but it makes you better at what you do. Cipriani has incredibly sourcing abilities, which was one of the reasons why we wanted to work with them. The reaction has been incredibly positive, and people have been pleasantly surprised with the quality aesthetic finishing with the price points the pieces are at.
VP: Do you have [or had] a design mentor? How have they shaped your career?
JV: No, I do not. I spent 4 years at Ralph Lauren and though that has nothing to do with my aesthetic, in terms of quality, focus and marketing he [Ralph] is a master at those things. He created a personality that stayed true to the brand. The key is staying true to who you are, and don’t chase trends. In the early ’90s, he [Lauren] decided to stay with what he was good at; he didn’t chase someone else’s style. Own what you have, be the best in that area, and don’t try to be something to everyone.VP: How does being located within New York affected you as a designer?
JV: It’s very stimulating being here; there aren’t a lot of places in the world I could live and work. I love living here, I love the energy of the streets, the energy of New York; there is always something going on. I am here for music, art, fashion, and the influx of people around the world; a city like L.A. would not stimulate my creative juices.VP: Leather is a large part of your brand; would you consider bringing mainstream styled fur into the mix?
JV: No, we are not into killing for hides and have no interest in adding fur to collections. It’s not a look we want.VP: This collection is being created by Cipriani Accessories; how did you decide Cipriani was the best fit with your brand and collection?
JV: They have a passion for products, and passion for the JV brand. Their employees are strong followers and good customers of ours, and follow the lifestyle of the brand. Collaborations must be passionate and able to creatively bounce off of each other.VP: You have been very involved with music related charity efforts (the Road Recovery benefit and MusiCares®) – what drives this focus?
JV: A number of different things; most public schools do not have music programs because there is no more funding. We need to get funding back in the schools and have music become a larger part of people’s lives; it’s a healthy outlet for young people. Road Recovery helps musicians with substance abuse issues, and gives kids something healthy and exciting to own and be passionate about without drugs. We need to embrace it [music] in total; it’s a major dagger to the heart to hear about communities that don’t have music programs – music is the healthy drug.VP: JV’s Funhouse is an excellent window into what moves you. It’s rare to find a [public] outlet that is updated on the regular by a designer; how does this expression differ from the satisfaction you get from designing clothing?
JV: Everyone does these things for different reasons; I am connected from music, and I do this blog because I’m passionate about it. Music is all about discovery, and I have the opportunity to be able to offer people a place to go to find new music, and see what I’ve found and experienced. Those are things you can share with people, and some of it is fun, stupid, goofy things, things other people wouldn’t be able to see. For instance, I was in a trailer with Perry Farrell and Eddie Vedder rehearsing, they started singing, so I picked up my camera and started recording [video] – that was a once in a lifetime moment. The blog is about the whole idea of turning people onto new things, re-discovering old things, discovery in general.VP: I’ve heard that you and Betsey Johnson are friends, is there truth to that?
JV: No, she has done her own things for more years than I know. She marches to her own drum and beat, and is very respected because of it. She’s not fake, she’s organic. We both do positive things, and stay real. The musicians in JV ads are not paid, they want to do it. It’s a relationship, it’s mutual respect that creates relationships.
And there you have it!
While we went slightly over time and I didn’t have time to grab a photo, I’m sure there will be more opportunities involving myself and John Varvatos’ crew in the coming future. He is an amazing designer, a true, honest and down to earth professional and I was honored to have been given the opportunity to sit down with him.
