• The pea coat

This can be military inspired or otherwise, but the pea coat has survived many decades because of its rugged practicality as well as it’s visual appeal. Military or Navy issue pea coats are fairly affordable (especially if you come across them 2nd hand) and offer a way to dodge a designer’s price tag; so I would suggest going that route if spend is a potential issue.

The coats below are shown in various levels of dress. Burberry’s model has ample layering and accessories (with the toque and gloves); while the rest show a more minimalistic visual approach to wearing a coat of this type. Try finding a coat in a black or gray; as you will get the most wear out of those “everyday” tones.

From the left: Burberry Prorsum, Kris Van Assche, Z Zenga, Z Zenga

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• Colorful ties, socks and other visual accents

Paul Smith is the master of working in little splashes of color into what would be a mundane suit. See how much of a difference the electric red tie and the screaming yellow socks makes? Additions like this require little spend and can make much difference on your entire look.

Invest in some vibrant socks at your local Holt Renfrew, or find them via the internet if possible. Try to be bold with your colors, though…you want to surprise!

Both, Paul Smith

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• Sharp leather brogues

Since we typically see much rainfall on the West Coast (among other regions!) so going with a patent leather is a safe plan. Brogues can be used in casual and formal settings, so investing in one (or more if you can) pairs is highly advisable.

Having a blast of color to your shoes will have a positive effect visually, similar to a vibr

ant sock or tie as previously discussed…just be sure you’re pairing appropriate colors together!

Left, Executor Luciano in electric blue by Fluevog; $269, Right, White Luxury Loake Brogues by Topman; £140.00

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• A fitted leather jacket

Toss aside your ill fitting 80s leather jackets, boys, and find one that actually fits you. I see so many vintage jackets being worn with potential, but just ending up looking like you’ve thrown a leather garbage bag over yourself! It’s a shame, and we must avoid it at all costs.

Invest in a well constructed, classic fitting leather jacket and you won’t have to put that money out again for many seasons. Don’t give in to trends like color or distressing; as that will only show in the pieces’ age and make you look out dated.

Pay particular attention to the length of the arm when you are stretching out and the look of the jacket when zipped up to indicate a proper fit. Having a jacket that bunches at the mid section or looks as though it has a 3/4 length

Left; Viktor & Rolf, Center; Number (N)ine, Right; Z Zenga

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• 3 pairs of dark, raw denim

Raw denim is choice for many reasons; the fit is in essence customized since you wear the denim into submission, raw denim brands ensure their products are well constructed and hold the test of time, and there are no silly fades or embellishments done to the denim itself.

I say dark denim not only because you’re buying for fall, but because dark denim can be dressed up (to a point). While lighter, faded and worn denim has a distinctive casual look; dark denim can be masked with other smart choices to be a dark slack.

For Vancouverites, stop by Dutil or Holt Renfrew for the best selections in the downtown core of raw denim brands.

Shown: Naked & Famous “Black Power Stretch”, prices range from $120-150 depending on boutique

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• One [at minimum] pair of leather gloves; one knitted

I say two pairs, because allowances should be made for one black and one brown pair. Though the old thought of not having brown and black colors mixing does not still hold true, you should still allow for mix and match options.

Leather gloves from bluefly.com, $39.99 (sale)

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• Bow ties

They aren’t just geek chic anymore. The bow tie can be a finishing touch on an outfit that would have been fine as a stand alone ensemble; but added to step yourself up from the rest of the crowd. There has been a serious drought of non-cheesy bow tie action in street style lately, and boys, the torch is here for you to run with.

What I like about working in the bow tie is that it doesn’t make your outfit instantly formal. As the Burberry model is styled, you can see he is styled comfortably and casually while still being streamlined and unique.

Viktor & Rolf show the classic usage of the bow tie; a look with a suit that one has to be careful does not turn into the look of your 8th grade science teacher (especially with the gray suit).

Right, Burberry Prorsum; Left, Viktor & Rolf

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• Casual ties

A man cannot survive without at least a few informal ties in his arsenal (and nor should he). Depending on the event, one can have great fun with ties. Take for example the gingham version below; obviously this would not be worn to anything formal, but it can spunk up a standard sweater-collard shirt combination. Try the look out with a dapper cap or a new pair of glasses; just bear in mind to scale back on accessories if your patterns and layering is very strong already.

For tie inspiration, check out Paul Smith runway stills. Paul is one designer that never fails to put a cheeky spin on traditional male apparel without looking cheap or cheesy.

Skinny ties by Topman, £10.00 each

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• Leather ankle boots

If you fancy more of a rockstar look than the streamlined gentleman, grab yourself a pair of well constructed leather ankle boots. These can be worn with the pant tucked in, or partially covering for more formal situations.

I like the buckles and fit of the shown Idol Jacks by Fluevogs; but you’ll pay a pretty penny to have the privilege of wearing them. Try them out to complete your pseudo Fall rock star look; but don’t over do it.

“Idol Jack” boots by Fluevog; $405

On August 9th, Mintage in Gastown (Cordova Street) is taking their “vintage clothing by the pound” sale to the next level!

For one day only, all vintage clothing at Mintage is $4.99/lb!

Sales at Mintage always seem to be freaking bananas, so get there early and perhaps head over to So.cial for a delicious sandwich to replenish oneself afterwards (yummm)!.

• Fur

All moralistic arguments aside, fur is the ultimate fall wardrobe accouterment. Fur gives us back to times or raw survival; before side-walk stomping through your own urban jungle became sport. Get raw with your look this season, and get fur on your back.

For all you with a heavy pelt conscious (or those wise a wise head who are looking for a deal), you can still get very nice vintage fur at far more of a decent price whilst avoiding the killing of a more recent vermin.

The easiest way to work in a little fur is a pelt around the neck, while other bolder choices can range from collars to full-on coats in various colors.

(Left, Peter Som; Center, Alexander McQueen; right, Marithe & Francois Girbaud)

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• Cheeky tights

Tights are one of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to amp up the potential doldrums of a fall closet full of neutrals and muted tones. Rather than neons from summer, make a transition into fall subtlety with jewel tones that play nice with grays.

The all-over jewel tone may be a little too intense once we enter fall completely, but it would be appropriate to mark the shift into the pre-fall season. Do yourself a favor and ensure your legs are in shape to be highlighted; since eyes will be drawn to them.

Tights like these are easily and cheaply procured from your local American Apparel. The mustard ones are on my to-purchase list for this weekend!

(Left, Proenza Shouler; Center, Moschino; right, Luisa Beccaria)

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• Gloves

If you haven’t already amassed a healthy glove collection, you’d best begin now. Besides protecting the hands, gloves give your look a strong boost. Even with a summery dress shown below from the Thakoon runway is given an easy fall edge with cropped leather gloves and dark tights.

Lanvin also shows a more intense look to work with when the colder weather brings a colder look.

(Left, Lanvin; right, Thakoon)

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• Borrow from the 19th century

I’m in my glory. Collars, double breasted jackets, back combed perms and leather boots ruled the runway for a certain two designers. This is a tad reminiscent of Dolce & Gabbana’s 2006 love affair with cherubs in militia, but with a bit of a softer turn.

2008 sees less brass, with the exception of the necessary buttons; with fabric taking part where metal used to rule the day.

To work this into your wardrobe on a budget, visit your local vintage shoppe for some full skirts and fitted jackets with large buttons. Layering a shirt with a tied ascot collar and puff sleeves will achieve the effect with minimal cost to you.

You can also chose to re-work buttons yourself on a jacket that would otherwise be perfect. If you are in or close to Vancouver, Button Button in Gastown is a perfect stop off for the button fiend.

(First two models, Alexander McQueen; last three, Moschino)

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• Being boyish

The runways are still seeing androgynous love walk their way. Tie your looks together with silk ties and scarves. Strong leather belts and shoes are another easy way to showcase this masculine look, though remember to keep cuts and styling streamlined to avoid looking over layered and too frumpy.

Classic male fabrics such as tweed and plaid are also making a noticeable splash on designer’s palettes. Luckily, all these pieces are probably already in your custody.

As this is a very layer-heavy look, be careful when choosing complimentary patterns and fabrics…there’s no such thing as dumpy chic!

(From left to right: Best Western, middle two models; Dolce & Gabbana, left; Ruffian)

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• And the accessories…

These three caught my eye.

The mini trunk on a chain offers a rustic alternative to futuristic shaped handbags and the over-done gigantic leather bag. While the box look is not as practical as one may wish it was, it is unique enough to be a featured piece in an otherwise dull outfit to carry you through the streets of your city.

I fancy the mustard captain hat since it not only offers a splash of [usually] much needed color to your accessories arsenal, but also is a unique alternative to the two main choices designers gave us for fall: back comb insanity or poker straight. Besides that, everyone could use at least a few nutty hats in their collection.

Moschino’s purple button suspenders made it for a number of reasons. I liked the fact that the designers chose to use the traditional button method versus the cheaper looking ‘clamp on’ version, and the patch embroidery gave the often-dull suspenders a bit of life.

Let’s not forgot the actual color! Even without the accompanying violet pant, these suspenders have the potential to give a splash of life to whatever pant you are pairing them with.

(Left, Stella McCartney’s treasure purse; Center, Marc Jacobs’ mustard hat; right, Moschino’s purple button suspenders)

Thanks to Dutil’s recent sale, I now have entered the world of raw denim.

I chose a pair by Naked & Famous, Canada’s premium raw denim manufacturer.

I was a little wary at the feel of these pants at first. For those unfamiliar, raw denim is unprocessed and therefore pretty stiff when you throw them on for the first while. It kind of feels like a gentler sandpaper (okay, maybe I’m exaggerating but this is not as soft on the leg as one is used to!)

I decided to take the plunge with Naked & Famous’ Black Power Stretch design. Immediately I could recognize how thick the denim was. It also had a bit of a sheen to the fabric; not enough to make things garish but enough to produce a very attractive subtle effect in all lighting.I also quite enjoy the lack of fade, which allows me to where this denim at [nearly] any place and time.

I’ve had them for less than a week, but already I can feel the denim shaping and loosening ever so slightly to create less of that sandpaper-like feel.

Since Naked & Famous is manufactured in Canada, you can feel good about supporting your country’s economy. Hurrah (as if you needed another excuse to buy).

This Saturday (7/17/2008), plan to be at Dutil in Gastown [directions] for their Fu*k Gas Prices! Walk To Dutil sale this weekend.

The sale entails 80% off their stock of premium denim; so you can avoid being a silly boy or girl who pays exorbitant amounts for their jeans. Dutil has a variety of labels in-house including APC, Rock and Republic, True Religion, Acne, Cheap Monday, Hudson, and Joe’s Jeans.

Prime your wallet, do a stretch and prepare to amass an up-to-date collection of your favorite designers’ bottom covers (but be sure to get there early…the store opens at 11am).

Bring a bit of edge to that grandpa (or grandma) sweater vest we all have by adding some edgy and possibly weapon-grade chain link suspenders by Dsquared for their Fall 2008 collection.

I couldn’t locate where to purchase these (or to even gain a price point) as of yet, but I’m assuming they will be hitting the $300+ mark which automatically takes me out of the running.

Still, one can make these babies easily enough. I would attempt using braces from an old pair procured from Value Village, and attach them via a large opening clasp found at most craft outlets.

This look would work amazing with full skirts; maybe even tulle to take away something potentially over feminine and give it some attitude. Somehow I can see these falling off easily or getting to be a pain on the shoulders; though the phrase ‘no pain, no gain’ comes to mind. We’ll see how it goes.

While the aforementioned title certainly does not apply to the “vomiting diamonds” wealthy; I still say they pay attention.

Today, I read an article on MSN.com regarding the trend of premium denim charges skyrocketing, even with the North American market squeeze. It was also mentioned that certain designers are selling pairs for upwards of $1,000 (if not pricier!).

I love expanding my style (and wardrobe); I really do, but what I cannot imagine is expanding my credit card debt level to such an extreme amount only to stay “with it” in the fashion scene for 6 months at my current salary level.

Why a $200 price ceiling? Bear in mind this is a maximum, not a minimum. $200 is being fair to the fact that this is premium denim from a premium label. To some extent you will always pay for the name of the manufacturer, but you are also paying for better construction and materials used.

Believe me, I have tried cheaping out on denim in the past. That story ended up with ripped stitches and heavy traffic areas worn thin after not owning the pants for more than a few months!

This is why it’s insane to spend more than $200 on premium denim:

• Stores like Winners have usually comparable stock to premium department stores or boutiques, but at a fraction of the price. One example (of many experiences) was I found a gray pair of Earnest Sewn skinny jeans for $60 at the local Robson/Granville Winners location. The retail price was $300 at Holt Renfrew.

• Even premium department stores have sales. Holt Renfrew (or Neiman Marcus for our Yankee comrades) both have regular sales. Last weekend, I took a walk through the Vancouver HR while they were having their annual 30-50% off sale; and there were racks upon racks of not only premium denim but every other dream label item one could imagine.

• Take advantage of outlets. If you’re close to the US border like I am, take a day trip with some friends and drive down to the nearest outlet. Commuting together will lighten the gas price load, and it’ll be great fun as well. Outlets generally save 20+% off retail, though they vary in selection from location to location. Depending on your timing, you could hit an outlet sale as well, which is a double win!

• Small boutiques often have sample sales. These sales have a better selection if you’re the range of a 26-28, but you never know what you may find. Prices are usually at blow-out levels which will save you a bundle!

As a side note, I would generally avoid Craigslist, eBay and all other local equivalents when it comes to purchasing that which could be counterfeited. Nothing is worse than paying $80 for a pair of Diesel jeans when they’re fake, and you could have found them locally from a reputable retailer for the same price.

As always, remember that it pays to be creative, thrifty and patient when garment shopping. Just because one “it” store has what you want, does not mean you can’t get it for half the price somewhere else.

Always be a smart shopper!

The photos above were taken by myself at Mandula last weekend.

…is their colored satin slack.

Not only are Cheap Mondays affordable, but they offer an alternative to denim.

Yesterday, I found myself a pair of yellow satin slacks at Dutil in Gastown for $79. I can guarantee you won’t be able to beat a $79 price tag in any denim salon, never mind Dutil.

Since these slacks are light cotton rather than heavy denim, this is a more viable summer look when things begin to heat up.